These are the Land Rover Defender accessories owners most often Upgrade and Install First Aluminium Defender Sliders and Defender Side Steps at the top of the list. Next Most Popular as the LED lights and Light Bars, Dual Battery Systems, Camping setups including Showers and Awnings, Cargo Boxes, Roof Racks and Storage Upgrades. If serious about Off-Roading and 4x4 Touring then Wheel and Tyre Packages are Essential. If doing a lot of Long Distance Country and Outback Driving then Bull Bars, Mud Flaps and Tow Bar Upgrades are popular. For a lot of Beach and Mud Terrain then Air Compressor and Cabin Storage and Recovery Gear are required. Have a look through the Featured Parts and Upgrades below with a short summary of what the upgrade does, who it suits and where it sits on a typical build order.
Everything here is aftermarket or genuine equipment checked against the specific Defender body style, wheelbase and model year it is sold for. If you are planning a full round of Land Rover Defender modifications, work from the bottom of the vehicle up: sliders and protection, then wheels and tyres, then Defender wiring and electrical, then storage and interior.
The single most searched upgrade. Extruded aluminium Defender sliders give you a step into a lifted cabin and a rocker rail that survives rock contact. Lighter than steel, no rust, and bolted to the factory chassis mounts — the default first modification on almost every build.
Polished silver Defender sidesteps for owners who want daily-driver access without the armour look. Grippy tread inserts, sealed end caps and a profile tucked in tight so you keep breakover clearance on the 110 and 130.
When the tracks get tight, steel rock sliders take the hit that aluminium won't. Chassis-mounted, weld-reinforced and rated as a recovery jacking point — the heavy-duty end of the Land Rover Defender side steps range.
Curved LED light bars mounted to the roof or bar for genuine dark-road distance. The core of any Defender exterior lighting build, wired through a relay harness with a dash switch so nothing loads the factory circuits.
Plug-in LED fog and driving light kits that replace dull factory halogens with clean, wide spread. One of the easiest Land Rover Defender accessories to fit — no cutting, no permanent change.
Rear-facing flood lights for camp setup, reversing a trailer at night or working out of the back. A quietly popular piece of Defender aftermarket kit that owners only wish they'd fitted sooner.
Dropping a wheel size to gain sidewall is the most effective single change for unsealed roads. Silver and two-tone alloys paired with load-rated all-terrains — the Land Rover Defender modification that changes how the truck drives everywhere.
Airbag-compatible steel bull bars with winch provision, recovery points and aerial tabs. Animal strike protection plus a mounting platform for lights — the anchor of most front-end accessories Defender owners add.
Aluminium and composite canopies that turn the rear into lockable, dust-sealed storage for touring, camping or trade work. Gas-strut side doors, internal lighting and roof load rating included.
A 2" lift with matched springs and dampers restores ride height once bars, canopies and drawers add weight. Corrects sagging rear geometry and adds usable travel without upsetting the electronics.
Deep-dish TPE mats cut to Defender floor geometry, holding mud, sand and water off the carpet. Cheap, instant, and the most-returned-to accessory in the catalogue.
Airbag-safe canvas and neoprene covers that take the wear on work and touring vehicles. Pattern-cut per row so headrests, armrests and side airbags all still function correctly.
Defender LED lights and light bars are the fastest visible upgrade on an L663. A single curved bar above the windscreen or on the bull bar throws usable light 400–600 m down a gravel road, while pod lights fill the near corners. Fit them with a fused relay harness, an in-cabin switch and a high-beam trigger so the bar only works where it is legal, and choose combo optics (spot centre, flood edges) if you only run one bar.
A Defender dual battery setup keeps the fridge, lights and comms alive without ever risking the start battery. A 40 A DC-DC charger takes charge control away from the smart alternator, charges lithium or AGM properly on the move, and accepts solar input for long camps. Mount the auxiliary battery in the rear or under-floor tray, fuse both ends of every run, and size cable for the full length, not the current alone.
A complete Defender camping setup is a rooftop tent or canopy sleeping platform, a drawer system with a fridge slide, a 12 V power circuit and lighting that runs all night. Build it around payload: the 110 and 130 carry very different loads once a canopy, water and recovery gear are aboard. Keep heavy items low and forward, and run the fridge from the auxiliary battery, never the crank battery.
Defender awnings bolt to a roof rack or roof-rail platform and unfold into instant shade over the side or rear door. A 270-degree wing suits touring where you camp in the same spot for days; a straight 2.5 m arm is lighter and quicker for overnight stops. Check the rack's dynamic load rating and mount brackets so the awning clears the rear door swing on the 90 and 110.
Good Defender wiring and electrical work is what separates a reliable build from a dashboard full of faults. Use Anderson plugs for trailer, solar and portable-battery connections, run a dedicated fused accessory panel rather than tapping factory circuits, and earth to a chassis stud, not a body panel. Sheath every run, keep loom away from exhaust heat and label both ends for future troubleshooting.
The Defender modifications that pay off first are the ones that carry weight: suspension matched to your final loaded mass, then wheels and tyres, then protection. Fit suspension after you know what the canopy, drawers and bar weigh, so springs are rated to the real number. Get an alignment and, on lifted trucks, a headlight aim check once everything is bolted on.
Defender bull bars are the most common front-end upgrade because they solve three problems at once: animal-strike protection, a winch mounting platform, and a place to mount LED driving lights. Airbag-compatible designs keep the factory crash envelope intact, and the best kits include a radar-sensor relocation bracket so adaptive cruise and AEB keep working. Choose steel for remote-area touring or a lighter alloy nudge bar for urban and suburban use.
Defender cargo boxes add weatherproof, lockable storage without eating cabin space. Roof-mounted cases work on crossbars or a platform rack and are ideal for light, bulky gear such as bedding and camp chairs; rear tray boxes suit canopies and trade builds. Look for IP-rated seals, gas-strut lids and keyed-alike locks so everything opens with one key.
A Defender roof rack turns the roof rails into a genuine load platform for cargo boxes, rooftop tents, awnings and recovery boards. Platform racks sit lower and quieter than basket styles, while full-length expedition racks carry the most weight. Always check the dynamic load rating for the specific Defender wheelbase and account for the tent or box weight before adding people inside it.
Defender towing accessories start with a chassis-rated tow bar and 7-pin or 13-pin harness, then expand to brake controllers, weight-distribution hitches and recovery hitches. The L663 is rated to 3,500 kg braked, but only with the right tongue weight and trailer wiring. An integrated electronic brake controller is the cleanest option because it talks to the factory screen instead of adding a dash-mounted module.
Defender tow bars bolt to the factory chassis mounts and provide the 50 mm receiver tongue used by standard tow balls, pintle hooks and recovery hitches. Choose a kit that includes the wiring harness and, if you tow heavy, an integrated electronic brake controller. A removable tongue is worth it if you want a clean rear look when the bar is not in use.
Defender roof top tents get you off the ground, away from water and wildlife, and set up in under two minutes. Hard-shell clamshell tents are faster and more aerodynamic; soft-shell fold-out tents give more internal space for the same footprint. You will need a roof rack or platform rated for the tent's dynamic weight, plus a ladder that clears the rear door on the 90 and 110.
A 12 V Defender compressor is the difference between a slow leak and a stranded vehicle. Use it to reinflate tyres after sand or rock work, seat beads on remote tyre changes, and run small air tools. The best kits include a digital pressure gauge, alligator clips or Anderson plug power input, a long coiled hose and a storage bag. Mount it in the rear drawer or under-floor tray so it is always with you.
Most owners begin with access and protection. Aluminium Defender sliders or Defender sidesteps solve the step-in height on a lifted 90, 110 or 130 while shielding the rocker panel, which is the panel most expensive to repair. From there, Defender exterior lighting is the next common step because it is self-contained and reversible.
Heavier Land Rover Defender modifications — wheels and tyres, canopies, bull bars and suspension — should be planned together, because each one adds weight that the others have to carry. Our full catalogue lists load ratings, fitment notes and whether an arch modification or spacer is required.
Showing 25 of 28 listed Defender aftermarket accessories.